My voyage on the Ingoldsby SS
Saturday March 7th 1885 AD
We started from Cardiff at 10-30 on a lovely day and a calm sea. At 11-30 we passed Gully Island steaming at the rate of 7 to 8 knots per hour.
At 13 'oclock we had dinner (soup & roast mutton with etc.)
After dinner I went out on the bridge to have a better view of the places we were passing.
At 14-30 we passed Ilfracombe at 16 we passed Lundy Island & at 16-30 we passed Hartland point. I had a slight headache this afternoon but I made a good tea all the same at 17 oclock,
About 13 to 14 oclock the log got caught in something so we had to pull it on deck to put it right.
Sunday March 8th
At 4 this morning I got sea-sick & I rose at 6 and went on deck.
The weather is a little more rough today with a fair wind so:-
Never mind the weather
When the wind blow fair
I had my breakfast in the chart-room this morning feeling too quemish to go below.
After breakfast the Chief Engineer came in & so did Aunt they asked me how I felt & said I would soon be better, I have a slight cough so you see it was about time I came from that damp place called England.
At 17-30 I felt a little better & had tea in the cabin with the others after tea I went on deck & had a talk with the Chief Engineer.
At 19 oclock I was going below when Mr Lee (2nd Engineer) asked me how I was so I told him that I felt a little better, we stood talking for a little while & then I went below & got to bed at 20 ocl.
A little before 6 the steward came into my room singing out coffee sir coffee, I'm arrived sir while I was drinking it he said we were going 15 knots per hour which is not the truth.
I went on deck at 7 oclock I saw that it was rather windy.
At 8 oclock I went below to write my log while the steward was getting the breakfast. It is not very nice writing with the ship going at full speed.
At one oclock we had dinner & as my appetite is better I had a good share so
Oh Ingoldsby Oh Ingoldsby
It seems you give new life to me
May I hope it wont be long
Before I get home well & strong
And may I hope to se once more
The one I love, yea & -
I very often think of mother and wonder how she & all the others are getting on, do they ever think of their wicked boy as he often thinks of them when
Steaming o'r the dark blue sea
On board the good ship "Ingoldsby.
The sea is just the same to day as yesterday, but, the weather is a little warmer.
I went down the engine-room with Uncle this morning to see them working & Mr Fraser shewed me every thing I wanted him to.
I have been a little better in health but for a pain in my left side. This morning Mr Fraser cut the hair off the head of his dog so I helped him hold it while he did it but I did not ask him to cut a piece of its ear off in mistake.
We dine at sea at about the same hours daily as we get Breakfast at 8 dinner at 12-30 tea or commonly called supper at 17 oclock.
After tea at about 19 oclock I went below & had a quiet talk in Aunts state room & had a quiet evening.
At 20 oclock I got to bed & had a read there till 21 & soon after fell asleep.
Steaming steaming, ever steaming
Steaming through the Oceans foam
Steaming miles away from land
Steaming far away from home
I rose this morning at 6 oclock & got on deck by 6-30 & then I saw the ( )for the first time since the day before yesterday.
At 8 oclock I went below & was having a talk when all at once the whistle went & so I ran up to see what was the matter & found Uncle signalling to the SS Bowenfield on board of which Uncle has a friend.
At 8-30 I went below & had a jolly good breakfast consisting of ham, tripes, bread & butter, linces (?) & cocoa & I had a good share of each.
At 9-30 we were bowling along at a fine rate 8½ knots along the Spanish coast & we had all sails set.
At about 11-30 I went down to the Engine-room to see Mr Fraser & the Engine, so Mr Fraser took me through the tunnel when I came up from there I went to the chart room where Aunt & Uncle were & I had a read of the book the chief lent me it was called The Engine-room & who should be in it.
The weather is getting warmer now or at least we are getting nearer the sun every day by about 100 to 150 miles.
I had a slight cough with a nasty choking feeling so Uncle gave me a piece of Turkish Delight which son put it alright again.
I am beginning to feel a little better in health but am often in low spirits. We passed one of the mail steamers this afternoon one of the Anchor line. I made a very good dinner today and a very good tea.
After tea at about 18 to 19 oclock I went to ask Mr Fraser if he would kindly come down to the cabin & give Uncle Aunt & I a tune on his (??) which he did. Mr Fraser is a very nice fellow but would e better if he did not use such bad words sometimes.
Mr Fraser has two pretty little dogs of which he is very fond.
It has been a lovely day the sun shining all the time just like summer at home.
Uncle had the chicken coop taken aft today to be repaired & when it is ready the fowls will be put in it.
We have a russian pig on board and a funny fellow it is.
At 20 oclock I went to my room & at 21-33 got to bed.
Rose at 6-30 got on deck by 7 when I saw a steamer going the same way as our selves.
At 8-30 we had breakfast after breakfast I went on the bridge & saw the land right ahead.
At 11 oclock we were steaming between the mainland & Burling Island
having just passed the Farilhaen Islands.
There was another steamer close by going the same direction as ourselves & I was looking at the Islands I could not remember seeing anything so pretty. The sun was flashing on them & a lot of fishing boats passing then. Indeed I was enjoying myself.
But perhaps you would like to know what it was like.
Well we were steaming at the rate of 8 knots per hour on our starboard quarter were the Farilhaens Islands flashing in the sun abreast of us were a lot of rocks, a little further on was Burling Island with a light house stuck on the top.
Close by the Island is a Portuguese fishing boat, on our port side was Portugal, close along side the steamer & a little further on is a long (??) of land. In fact it was grand & I should advise anyone wanting a change to go this way. Supposing he has such a nice Capt as I have.
At 11-30 Uncle signaled to the shore so I dare say it will be in the papers that we have passed this place. At noon we set the log when passing Carvaeiri so the next point of land I will see will be my old friend Lisbon point (Cape Da Roca) which is 35 miles distance. At 12-17 we passed the steam ship Tredejan of Cardiff. Mr Fraser's Father is mate on her so we signaled & wished her good bye.
At 16-30 oclock we were passing Cape Roca (Rock of Lisbon) which is the westernmost point of Portugal & of the continent of Europe it is about 550 ft high & used to have a lighthouse upon its summit but it is now lower down.
At 16:40 we were steaming passed the place where the douglas spent her Sunday with 3 fish under her tail (?), this place is called Cape Rarzo and looks just the same now as when I saw it 3 years ago.
At 17-30 oclock we had tea then went on deck to get some fresh air at 18 oclock I went below & had a few games of dominoes with Aunt & Uncle. & got to bed by 20-15 oclock.
Rose at 6 got on deck by 6-15 saw a few steamers & passed Cape St Vincent or San Vicente which is 200 ft high bluff & level there is a convent on the summit with a light-house on the convent. There are other buildings there but not many. About a mile from the convent is a fort which is called Fort Belise. We have had the land in sight all the morning but it has now disappeared (13-30 oclock). At 12-30 we had dinner (roast fowl, pie, etc.) It has been a lovely day but for a little rain before breakfast but the rest of the day was like mid-summer. In fact quite hot & Uncle wore his big hat which was like a monster mush-room. Aunt was very ill last night but she is much better now & I have been cleaning her machine for her this afternoon n deck & saw a large mail boat go bye.
At 20-15 I went on deck with the Capt to get a mouthful of fresh air & saw the water shining & at 21-50 I got to bed.
Rose at 4-40 got on deck & could just see the rock of Gibraltar in the distance but of course it was too dark to see anything but the shape of it.
I also saw the light on the other side (Africa) of the strait & it seemed to be
very large so,
Now we're passing close Gibraltar
Soon we will be passing Malta
Then at Constantinople we
Will discharge load & put to sea
When I went on deck at 4-30 it was raining a little but the water was not very bad but, for a small current.
We have been sailing along the Spanish coast & saw a few mountains with snow on the top.
At 17oclock we passed Cape Sacratif.
This headland which has a light-house & a watch tower on it, is the highest land on this coast (SPAIN) we passed this cape at about 20 miles distance. At 17 I went on deck & had a talk with Mr Fraser walking arm in arm along the deck.
At 19-15 I went below to Uncle's room for a short time & soon after got to bed.
I rose at 6 this morning & had a cup of tea wrote a little & then got on deck.
After dinner I saw the african land.
The sea ha been on the side today & the ship has been rolling very much.
When we had tea this afternoon we had the storm boards on the table to prevent the china from falling off.
After tea I went to the chart-room & had a good read till 21 oclock then I went below & soon got to bed.
Rose at 6-15 got on deck by 7 & then went to the chart house. I had hard work to get there through the rolling of the ship.
At 7-30 went below had a good wash & then a good breakfast. We have been sailing in sight of the african coast today & I have been reading.
It is washing day with the sailors on board to day & their clothes are all over the shop the men have not much time to wash on week days.
At 19 I went below & at 21 turned into my berth.
Rose at 6 went on deck saw that the ship was rolling very much & there was a strong head wind. I had a read in the chart house till dinner time while Uncle had a smoke.
After dinner we put the ships head more for the short as she was pitching very much. We came in sight f the african land at about 15 oclock but the wind turned & blew very strong.
At 19 I went below to the drawing-room but soon after retired.
When I got on deck this morning we were passing quite close to the african shore.
At 8 oclock we passed the Canit (?) or dog rocks which has a light-house on its summit.
At 12 we passed Zembra Island at 12-15 we had dinner then set all the sails to make the best of a strong breeze from the land when the men were setting the fore sail a big rat jumped out and ran under the cover of the steam pipe that leads to the winches so uncle & Mr Fraser took the dogs there & I went with them & we had a fine rat hunt. There were Uncle the Chief Eng, 2nd Eng, 1st Mate myself & the cook.
At 14 oclock we passed Cape Bon. Cape Bon is a high promontory projecting from a low and narrow sandy isthmus remarkable for its summit displaying horizontal strata of white spar stones which renders it barren the interstices being covered with a short brown heath. When first viewed from eastward it resembles an Island on account of the moderate elevation of the land immediately southward of it, and its northern part appears much more lofty than its southern. It is 1176 ft high & can be seen 50 miles off.
I went below at 19 oclock & soon got to bed.
I did not rise until 7-30 this morning as I was not very well.
It has been a very dull day with rain & misty. I had dinner in the chart-house with Aunt as she was rather sick, & the ship was rolling about very much.
We have been steaming along the coast of Sicily to day. And passed the last point (in our ??) at 19-30 The point is called Cape Passero. Just before I went below Uncle, Aunt, Mr Fraser & myself had a few games of Dominoes in the chart-house, but they were falling all about through the rolling of the ship.
Rose at 6-30 got on deck & went to the chart-house when I was on the way there, the sea came over the side but I just escaped the wetting. It has been very rough all day & so I had my food brought to me on deck. I was too sick to go & have it in the cabin, Aunt had hers in bed.
I had a donkey ride on one of the sailors from the bridge to the cabin, I seem to give a lot of trouble but they all say they dont mind it when I am sick & they are all very kind to me.
When I had the ride on the donkey a great sea came over the side & the fellow nearly fell & I did laugh in fact I nearly fell off by it, to see the man holding on to one of the ropes & another man holding him up. Oh it was a jolly lark.
I was very sick again after tea & had another ride to the chart-room on the steward's back. Uncle took me on his to the cabin when it was time to get to my berth.
The sea has gone down a lot since last night but I have been sick again today but not half so much as yesterday.
The decks are wet with the sea splashing over them & there is nothing else worth saying to day so I will say Good night.
We have been a fortnight at sea & they say I look a great deal better in health & I only hope I do. We are now sailing through the Grecian Archipelago and at 7-30 passed some beautiful Islands. I had my breakfast as quick as could & then I came on deck to see the sights. It has been a lovely day & there has been a good many lovely views to see. At 11-30 we were passing through the channel between the Islands of St. Georgio and Thermia. At 13-30 we were passing through Zea channel, that is between Zea Island & Makronese Island. Zea Island is pear shape & is about 5 miles in breadth & 10 miles in length and there are a few windmills on the highest part there is also a hermitage. The port of Zea, called also port St. Nikolo is on the N.W. part of the Island & the town is stuck up on the side of the hill, the houses have flat tops (roofs) but there is a nice little church in the centre of the town. I saw it all, through Uncles best glasses.
At 18 oclock we were passing through the straits of Doro the sea is quite calm. I did not go below until 20 oclock to day as it was so nice on deck with the stars shining & the weather so warm.
This is the third Sunday we have spent on the sea, but we have not had such a fine one since we left, there is not a ruffle on the water the sun is quit strong & we were passing new views every minute.
I awoke this morning, or at least the rats woke at 4-35, but not wanting to rise so early I gave the wood-work a good kick to frighten the rats away & who should come into my room but Uncle & he wished to know if I was afraid of anything or ill but when he knew what the matter was he laughed & said that Aunt thought I was ill & calling, he will never come to see if there is anything wrong if I give it a hundred kicks. When I came on deck after breakfast we had a nice view of the shore from out side the Gulf of Smyrna.
Just before dinner we passed a little Island with a light-house on the summit, there were a few men on it & I waved my hat to them for a lark so they did the same in return. A little before 12 oclock we passed the rabbit Islands & then got to the fort at the mouth of the Dardanelles there are a lot of picturesque places there are also a lot of queer craft.
We passed quite close to a (?? fryr?) today & I waved to them so they did wave back which made Uncle & Aunt laugh. I was on the bridge with Uncle from 14 oclock till 15 looking at the places we were passing we were quite close to the as the current is very strong every now and again we would se a gentleman or farmers house in the valley close to the waters edge.
At 15 clock we came in sight of Chanak & 16-30 we got there. Then the boats put of from the shore for the ship & they looked very picturesque with their crews of Turks Greeks & niggers who wore suits of every colour red, blue, white, black, green, &c there are a lot of forts here with their sentries pacing back and fore. It was at this place that I saw the mosques for the first time they have a very high tower up which the priests go every day to pray to Mohomit & the towers are to take the Priest as near heaven as they can so that they may be near Mohomit.
We have passed a great many towns today, one very large one but I was having such a god tea below, that we had passed the best of it before I came up.
At 19 oclock I went below to the drawing-room, where we had a little music & then I went to my berth & very soon fell in the land of dreams.
I rose this morning at 5-30 went on deck, but, there was not much to be seen, there being a very thick fog at the time. I soon got on the bridge where Uncle was keeping a look-out he had been there al the night. In fact he never stays below when the ship is in danger. At about 8 oclock I thought I heard a bell ringing, I was not on the upper bridge at the time & thought it was fancy, but, not long after when I was on the upper bridge, Uncle gave order for the men who were at the cable to keep quiet he thought he could hear a bell, and as soon as they stopped their row Uncle sang out Hard-a-port - Port your helm there Ay Ay sir & round she came just in time and there right where she was going was the land and a little nearer to us were two steamers anchored, but, one of them got up its anchor & came after us when they saw that we were not afraid of the fog.
I then went below for breakfast & when I came up we were abreast of Constantinople.
Constantinople, the metropolis of the Ottoman Empire, and the chief city of Islam is situated on a hilly promontory at the southern entrance of the Bosphoruz.
The city is built on seven hills with their intervening valleys, and forms an irregular triangular-shape area.
The total (?renity ??) of the city is between 11 & 12 miles, of which each of the three sides occupies nearly four miles. Within this enclosure the city forms a confused mass of narrow, winding steep and dirty streets except in the modern part where it is something grand there the houses are built of marble 5 to 6 story high with large bow window & the streets are paved with stones, there is a tramway there but it is a very poor affair, there is also an under-ground railway. Constantinople and its suburbs are peopled by a motley assemblage of Turks, Greek, Armenians, Jews, Franks, and natives of the east to whom separate quarters are allotted: though in certain parts some of them dwell promiscuously.
The Franks form a motley & varied class consisting of English, Scotch, Irish, Maltese and Ionian Greeks, Americans, French, Italians, Swiss, Prussians, Austrians, Hellenic Greeks and Russians; all of whom enjoy the protection of their own national law, which is administered by their consuls. The Scotch, English, Irish & French are the most respectable; some of the others preserve a decent character; but the mass of them, are the most practised rogues, thieves, assassins, gamblers, swindlers, and villains that ever existed in any city.
But besides the human inhabitants, there is another class of occupants which form one of the wonders of Constantinople. The dogs are not the property of any one, but are supported by all. Their litters are never destroyed; they are the only scavengers, and may be constantly seen prowling along the edge of the water in search of bodies that may be washed ashore. The dogs are never domesticated and mosques and other enclosures are carefully guarded from their intrusions. They are susceptible to the plague, but hydrophobia is said to be unknown among them. They have all their peculiar districts where they observe the most rigid police among themselves; and should a vagrant invade his neighbours territory the whole party immediately assail him.
I received news from home & was glad to see that everything was going on well.
After dinner I went on shore with Aunt & Uncle, and enjoyed myself very much, there were a lot of funny sights to see & things to buy. There were oxen without hair pulling their clumsy carts, men with saddles on their back carrying very heavy loads, hundreds of dogs prowling about the streets and eating up all the dirty stuff they came across.
I had a little cup of coffee at the ship chandlers, it was very nice though it was just like the slops left in the bottom of the cup like you get in England, the cup held about 2 tablespoons of the thick stuff.
Rose at 7-30 & could hear the bells ring on the Mosques when I went on deck the weather was very dull but it cleared soon afterwards.
I went for a long walk just before dinner I think it was 4 miles I went anyway I saw a lot of fine places such as the entrance to the Sultan's Brother's Pal(ace), it was very grand & there were soldiers guarding it.
At 13-15 we had dinner and of course after my long walk I made a very good one. At 14 oclock Aunt, Uncle and myself went on shore to have a look at the town & had a splendid time of it.
We went to see the church but went to the wrong place & found ourselves (aunt & I) in the sultans tomb so the fellow that took care of it said, but, I think it must have been some of the Sultans relations or Pashas. It was a very grand place inside, it was a large place, with dombs on the top & was about the size of an ordinary house. Inside the domb the walls were covered with small stones & tiles of many colours. The floor had thick Turkish carpets, in the centre of the building was a square railed place inside of which the graves were at the head of each grave was a large candle about 8 inches diameter.
After we came from the last place we went for a ride on the tram-car. I forgot to say that I had a ride through the underground railway yesterday, it went right under the street & was just like the incline from the coalfields.
We got on board by 5-15.
Rose at 7-30 got on deck & then went down to the engineroom to see what the Engineers were doing. After that I went on shore with Mr Fraser to Mr Jones the Engineers shop, the shop is a very poor looking place though the father of the present owner made his fortune there in 5 or 6 years time.
After dinner at 14-15 oclock I went ashore & had a guide take me to the places of interest, just (?) we went to see the museum we had to cross the river so we did not go over the bridge but went in one of the cazeks (?) (boats) it was proper (?) sitting down in the bottom of it among the (??) The museum was guarded by soldiers & the things inside were worth a lot of money, one Gentleman offered 70000£ for one of the things there but they would not let him have it. I saw remains of people over 200 to 300 years old trinkets over 100 & sculpture over 500 years, &c in fact there were antique things from all parts of the world Europe Asia Africa America etc. There were a lot of (?? Seul?) pictures of people & figures done by the romans nearly 400 years old. After seeing all this I went to see San Sophia Mosque which is the oldest greek church in the world at one time it was a christian but the Turks dont like that & cut out all the crosses that were on the wall except one which they cannot reach.
But I must describe the Mosque itself. After going through the door and then through the hall I found myself in a very large place with a lot of marble pillars in the centre of the building was a large domb supporting itself there was nothing holding the centre of it up & it looked very high the height was 180ft inside. The top of the domb was covered (inside) with little stones of every colour and the walls were build of marble. At the head of the church where the priest prays for the people there were 2 very large candles about 16" diam. & 7ft high. The floor was covered with matting & thick Turkish carpets, all around the inside of the building were hung thousands of little vessels holding oil & water and are used to light the place up.
Here and there kneeling on the ground or on their praying mats were a lot of people praying and counting their beads they pray to Mohomet & count one bead for every prayer. The guide took me all over the church & up to the place where you could look down and see the holding service. There were a few other ladies & gentlemen looking at the place I think they were English. Before I went down I wrote my name in lead on the side under some other names on a marble pillar. Then the guide got me some stones for which he gave a small bit of silver after that I put on my shoes & hat and went outside the outside is built of white stone.
The next place I went to see was the Sultans Tomb, It was long way from San Sophia's & was in a large marble place like a short thick tower & had a domb roof. I got in we had to pass the keeper & then pass through a door all studded with Iron after you pas through the last door you find yourself in a circular place of about 50 to 60 ft diameter built of marble & lined with tiles etc. on the wall was hung the last sultans prayer mat which was 5 by 7ft or there about and I dare say it cost a lot of money. The floor is covered with very thick (1 inch) and expensive Turkish carpets so you have to put a pair of slippers on your feet over your boots before they will let you go in. In the centre of the room was a space in which the graves each of them were railed in there were seven in number. First of all there is the last Sultan's who was murdered by his people nine years ago. The grave is railed in with solid silver rails & the grave itself which is something like a dogs kennel only sloping down one end and is covered with velvet & trimmed with gold & silver (?? laces?) on the floor but outside is his (the sultans) stool with his koran (bible) on it. The stool is made of silver & inlaid with ivory & mother of pearl shell a little way from the stool is his stand that held the koran when he was alive, it is made of solid silver and is 4'-6" high. The Sultans bible is all handwork and is very pretty. There were 5 more graves in the tomb they were the Sultans Parents his 2 sisters & 3 brothers. All of the graves but the brothers were railed with silver rails but they had some yellow ones, but I dont think it was gold.
After seeing this I went to the Bazaar and bought a few things. It was a very large place & would take more than one day to see all through.
From the last place I went to see some cliopatras needles and then went on board and made a jolly good tea.
Rose at 7 had breakfast and then went on deck to see the Turks working with the cargo a little before dinner time I went down the Engineroom to see the Engineers putting the Engine to rights. After dinner I went with Uncle & Aunt and had a long ride in the tramcar to Galata-Gal-Serri, that is in the middle of the city the English part - and we came back through the under-ground railway.
I rose the same time as usual and went on deck to see how the men were getting on with the cargo. I found that they had nearly finished and were working very hard to try and finish by 18 oclock.
I have been turning aunt's machine for her today, she has been making covers for the seats. At about 15-30 oclock I went ashore to the ship chandlers to meet Uncle and get some the ship chandlers had to search the city for it (Cadburys) and it cost 5/- the tin which you could get for 2/- in England.
At 17 oclock Uncle, the Pilot, & myself went on board had tea and went on deck again just as the last piece of Iron & the last basket of coal was discharged into the lighter It is not like a sailing ship when you have to wait a day or so before going out on a steamer as soon as the plank and the last bit of coal got over the side, the winches began heaving up the anchor the Pilot gives orders good byes are said, the bell rings & we are off once more to the next place which with us is Nicholieff in the Black Sea.
We soon passed the Sultans Brothers Palace all built of Marble & many other fine buildings but it got too dark to see much so I went below & came up in time to see the entrance to the black sea.
I rose at 8 oclock today & then went on deck when I found that we were out of sight of the land and the sea was calm. At 12-15 we had dinner I made a jolly good one & then went on deck. Soon after I had a nap and when I awoke I saw that the sea was rising.
At 17-30 I felt a little sick though I made a very good tea and then went to the chart-room where you dont feel the motion so much. I saw a steamer ahead which we were catching up hand-over-hand, though she was light like ourselves.
At 19 I went below & had a read by the fire it is rather cold in this part yet.
Sunday March 29/85
We have been steaming along the russian coast this morning & passed Odessa at 13-15 oclock we were steaming at the rate of 9½ to 10 knots per hour. Uncle gave orders not to throw any ashes over the side after we had passed the last named place.
At 17 oclock we arrived at Ochakov & left again at 18-30.
Ochakov is a town built on a low projecting point, and of but little importance, being of consequence only from a military point of view, as it comands the navigation of the rivers Rug and Dniepr, the narrow channel between Ochakov and the opposite point of Kinburn is commanded by a strong fort and two batteries on kinburn point, and by a fort and two batteries at Ochakov point. We had all our men aft for the customs officers to see that there were no russians among them as the russians are not allowed to leave their country.
At 20-15 we had to anchor through the mist hiding the land & the lights so I went below and got to bed. It has been a lovely day but for the mist on the land.
Monday (Nickoliefe Russia)
We arrived here at 1 oclock this morning. I rose at 6 and went on deck to see what sort of a place we were in, but you could not see much from the ship so after breakfast I went on shore and had a ride in one of the droskies (carriage) to the merchant with Uncle & the ship Broker, the roads here are four times as wide as they are in England and six times as dusty in summer and six times as muddy in winter. We went through the market and a funny place it is just a few carts with a lot of squealing pigs a lot of cows donkeys and any amount of horses in fact you can get one of the best for 3£ to 4£
The first things I saw today on deck were the russians loading. There were nearly 100 men & women. The men were carrying the meat (?) on their backs on to the hatch & then flinging it down so that it would hang half over then the women who were standing by the hatch would catch the bottom of the sack & empty it & put it on one side. They would do 1½ dozen by the time I could write this much. There were some of the girls down in the hold stowing the cargo but no men.
After breakfast I went on shore for a walk & went right through the town about 2½ miles and saw the statue of Peter the Great. I also had a look at the churches but I did not go inside any. I was up to the principle street & saw a lot of things but most of them were English make. The houses here are mostly of one story but there are a few with 2 or 3 stories. When I got back to the ship I felt quite hot though before breakfast it was like winter.
After dinner Uncle & Aunt were out to tea & left poor me behind so I took a nap & after tea went on shore for a quiet stroll outside of the town & all the people seemed to look at me.
There is nothing much worth mentioning today, but that we have been taking in our livestock for the voyage home. We have 32 geese 24 fowls and two little pigs hardly fit to leave their mothers. You can get livestock very cheap here the geese cost 2/2 fowls 1/6 & the little pigs 1/6 each but in the summer you can get geese at 1/= fowls 6d
Uncle wrote home this evening so I put a short note in with his.
Rose at 7-30 had breakfast & then had a look at the russians taking out some of the grain to make us light enough to cross the bar at Ochakov. At about 11 oclock I went on shore for a walk and went to the railway station to see what it was like. I saw a passenger train this morning. The russian trains are constructed on the American principle, you can walk from one end to the other if you like without getting off and attendants in each train supply every want of the traveler. But with all this advantage there is one great drawback and that is the slowness of the pace but the careless way in which the lines are constructed will not allow the train to go very fast. In fact if the Engine drivers were to attempt even a moderate rate of speed the sleepers and rails would inevitably give way.
This afternoon we brought the ship up to her anchor the men & women (russians) working al the time till four oclock, when they had a general meal of bread & raw fish. Then they went to work until they finished discharging.